Restaurants in the province of Trieste

Trieste does not eat Friulian and does not eat Italian: it eats central European. The *buffet* is an institution, and lunch comes with beer or Terrano.

What you eat here

• Buffet triestino — boiled pork, cotechino, horseradish, mustard and sauerkraut, served over the counter all day. The local form of street food.
• Jota — sauerkraut, beans, potato and smoked pork; in winter it is *the* dish.
• Sardoni in savor — anchovies marinated with onion, vinegar and raisins, a Venetian legacy.
• Presnitz and putizza, rolled cakes of walnut and dried fruit, and Easter pinza.
• Coffee, which in Trieste has a vocabulary of its own: *nero*, *capo*, *goccia*.

The wine

The Carso gives Terrano (Refosco on iron-red soil) and Vitovska, a saline white found nowhere else. Awkward, beautiful wines.

Opening hours change. The ones on the listings come from public sources and may be out of date. Where a restaurant confirms tables with us, the availability you see is the real one.